Hi there! The weather is nice for 1 day and I immediately feel like making a summer top. This top has a scoop neck and wide straps. This top is very easy to adjust to your own size and the stitch is not difficult either. Good for beginners but also great fun for the more advanced crocheter. Enjoy!

Materials

  • 2 skeins of Lorena in the color Light Jeans Blue (or other number 3 cotton yarn)
  • F or 4 mm. crochet hook.
  • stitchmarkers
  • Scissors
  • Tapestry needle

Terms used/abbreviations

Ch                    chain

Dc                   double crochet

Ch3sp             chain 3 space

Sc                   single crochet

Sl st                slip stitch

Notes

  • This pattern is written in US terms.
  • The pattern is worked in 1 piece, from top to bottom. 

Special stitch

V-stitch

Double crochet, chain 3, double crochet

Crab stitch

The crab stitch are single crochet stitches in reverse because you work in the opposite direction. If you’re right-handed, crab stitch goes from left to right, instead of right to left as with standard crochet. For left-handers, it’s the other way around.

Pattern

We start the pattern with a measurement.

Measure very loosely around your neck, so the measuring tape is where you want your neckline to be. Write this number down. For me that is 75 cm. or 29”.

Round yoke

Make a chain in multiples of 8 for the length you wrote down. Make a sl st in the first chain to close the round. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted.

Round 1: ch 3, turn your work. This ch 3 counts as a double crochet. Make a dc in the next 2 stitches. Skip 2 stitches and make a V-stitch in the next. Skip 2 stitches and make a dc in each of the next 3 stitches. Skip 2 stitches and make a V-stitch in the next stitch. Repeat until the end of the chain. Close the round with a sl st in the 3rd chain from the beginning ch3.  

Round 2: ch3, this counts as your first dc. Make 2 dc in the next dc (you increase 1 stitch in every group of dc), 1 dc in the next dc. Make a V-stitch  in the ch3sp in the middle of the V-stitch. *Dc in the first dc after the v-stitch, 2 dc in the next, 1 dc in the next. Make a V-stitch in the next V-stitch*. Repeat between the * until the end of the round and make a sl st in the 3rd chain from the beginning ch3 to close the round.

Repeat round 2 three more times by increasing 1 dc in the middle of every group of dc (you increase 8 stitches in every round).

Don’t bind off.

Back panel

Divide the yoke in half with 2,5 cm. or 1” in between in the middle and a V-stitch in every corner (see picture). Put stitch markers in the V-stitches in the corners. Make you’re your working yarn is in the first dc on the inside next to a stitch marker. Or bind off and reattach your yarn here.

Row 1: Work the stitch pattern without increases (1 stitch in every stitch and 1 V-stitch in every V-stitch) until the dc before the stitch marker. Don’t work the V-stitch.

Row 2: ch 3, turn your work. Work the stitch pattern back.

Repeat row 2 until the back is the same length as the front. See picture

If the length is the same as the front we make 2 more rows of just dc. Ch 3 turn your work and make another dc in the first stitch to increase. Dc in every stitch until the V-stitch and make a dc in the first dc of the V-stitch, 3 dc in the V-stitch and a dc in the 2nd dc of the V-stitch. Make a dc in every dc until the next V-stitch. Repeat until the end and end with 2 dc in the top of the ch 3 from the previous row.

Ch 3, turn your work and make another dc in the same stitch to increase. Make a dc in every stitch and end with 2 dc in the last stitch (the ch 3 from the previous row).

Cut your yarn. Bind off and weave in your end.

Front panel

Now it is time to make the front part. Count how many V-stitches you have in the back piece and count the same amount for the front. Make sure the middle V-stitches are lined up for the front and the back. Place  stitch markers in the dc next to the outer 2 V-stitches (see picture) Attach your yarn in a stitch with a stitch marker.

Row 1: Ch 3 and make another dc in the first stitch and in every dc until the V-stitch. Cover the V-stitch by making a dc in the first dc of the V-stitch, 3 dc in the V-stitch and a dc in the 2nd dc of the V-stitch. Make a dc in every dc until the next V-stitch. Repeat until the end and end with 2 dc in the top of the ch 3 from the previous row.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn your work and make another dc in the first stitch, dc in every stitch across and end with 2 dc in the top of the ch 3 from the previous row.

Row 3: Repeat row 2.

Don’t bind off. See if your work fits by putting it on and see if the ends of the front and back can touch each other under your arms. If that is not the case then you can make one row extra at the front and the back, try it on and if it fits then start with the body.

Body top

From here we start working in the round again. Make sure the right side is on the outside.

Round 1: ch 3, dc in the same stitch. Pick up the back and make 2 dc in the first stitch of the back (see picture). Then work a dc in every stitch across and make 2 dc in the last stitch. Pick up the other front side and make 2 dc in the first stitch of the front. Work dc in every stitch across.

Round 2: We don’t close our rounds from now on. Work straight in the first stitch and make a dc. We no longer increase but work 1 dc in every stitch around. Mark the first stitch so you now where your rounds end.

Repeat round 2 until the work is the length you like. To bind off stop 2 stitches before the end of the round and make a hdc in the next stitch, a sc in the next and a sl st in the next.

Border

Make 1 round of crab stitches around the arm openings, the bottom and the neckline to make a nice finish.
Bind off and weave in all of your ends.

Your top is ready to wear!