Today I teach you how to make a simple but beautiful sweater. The sweater is easy adjustable to any size. Just keep trying it on and adjust as you go.
- 5 skeins of Ice Yarns Wool Cord Sport in the color dark green (or if you want to make a sweater for spring you can use a lighter number 2 yarn, like cotton or bamboo)
- G/6 4 mm crochet hook and D/3 3 mm crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
Dc double crochet
Fp sc front post single crochet
Bp sc back post single crochet
Sc single crochet
Sl st slip stitch
hdc2tog half double crochet 2 together
Fp hdc front post half double crochet
Bp hdc back post half double crochet
Knit stitch/ waistcoat stitch: insert the hook in between the posts of each sc, yarn over and pull through, yarn under and pull through two. See picture below.
- This pattern is written in US terms.
- If you prefer a seamless join, click on this link https://2loopz.com/chainless-starting-stitch-and-seamless-join/ to learn how to do that. If you use this method you don’t see a visible start throughout your work.
Start with a double crochet foundation chain (want to learn how? Click this link) make this chain so long that it fits loosely around your head. Work in multiples of 10. For a size S I made 130 stitches. Close the round with a sl st in the first dc, make sure your foundation chain isn’t twisted.
Round 1: ch1, make a fp sc around the first dc. Do this by inserting your hook from front to back and back to front around the first dc, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops on your hook. Make a bp sc in around the next dc. Therefore insert your hook from back to front and front to back around the dc, pull up a loop and finish like a normal sc. Alternate fps c and bp sc around every dc until you are at the end of the round. Close the round with a sl st.
Round 2: ch3, this counts as your first dc, make a dc in the first 9 stitches, 2 dc in the 10th. Repeat this in every stitch around. Close the round with a sl st in the 3rd chain from the beginning ch3.
Round 3: repeat round 1
Round 4: repeat round 2, but now you make 10 dc in the next 10 stitches and then 2 dc in the same stitch.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 but in round 2 make 1 more dc extra in every round in between the 2 dc in the same stitch. When you put on the yoke and the front and the back reaches your armpits than your yoke is done. You can cut your yarn, bind off and weave in the end.
Fold your work in half and lay it flat on the table. Use 4 stitchmarkers to mark the armholes to the front and to the back.
Attach your yarn at the right in the stitch with a stitchmarker.
Ch 1, sc in each stitch across until you reach the other stitchmarker. Then we make the ch for the armholes.
S: Ch 6 under the arms
M: Ch 8
L: Ch 10
XL: Ch 12
XXL: Ch 14
Cross over to the stitchmarker at the other side and attach with a sc. Sc in every stitch across until you reach the next stitchmarker. Repeat the ch for the armhole. You can take out the stitchmarkers now. We start with the knit stitch for the body of the sweater.
Keep working in the knit stitch until the sweater is 1” below your belly button. Keep trying your sweater on and if you want a more tapered fit, then make decreases in your sides by knit stitch 2 together. If you want a more loose fit then you can increase by making 2 knit stitch in the same stitch. It is just working up a couple of rounds and then trying it on. If you need adjustments the make them in the next rounds and try your sweter on again. You can adjust your sweater completely to your size.
If your work measures about 1″ under your belly button then it is time to make the band.
For the band you switch to your 3 mm hook. Depending on the width of your sweater you make hdc in each stitch, alternating hdc and hdc2tog or hdc2tog in each stitch. If your sweater is narrow at the bottom, you can do 1 hdc in each stitch, if your bottom is very wide, you can do hdc2tog all the way around. Try it on after finishing this round to see if you like how it falls.
If you do then alternate front post hdc and back post hdc all around and close with a sl st. Repeat the fp hdc and the bp hdc for as many rounds as you like. Try your sweater on every now and then to see how it looks. If you are pleased with the length bind off and weave in your end.
We start the sleeves by making a round of sc around the armhole. Attach your yarn in the corner under the arm and just make 1 sc in every stitch around. Then we start with the knit stitch, just as we did for the body. Try it on every couple of rounds and see if you need decreasing. If you do then make the decreases under the arm. Write down when you decrease so you can repeat it on the other sleeve. Keep working (and decreasing if necessary) until the sleeve is the length you like. Then we repeat the same steps as we did for the band of the sweater to make a cuff to your sleeve. So switch to a 3 mm hook and make fp hdc and bp hdc. If you like the length of the cuff bind off and weave in the end. Make another sleeve exactly the same way.
Your sweater is done and ready to wear. Enjoy!