Hi guys! Are you looking for an easy pattern with a beautiful result? Look no further, this sweater pattern is made for you! We work from side to side for the front and back panels and top to bottom for the sleeves. I made this sweater with a local yarn but you can use any number 3 yarn you like.

Materials

  • a number 3 weight yarn. I used an acrylic and wool blend. My sweater is the size s/m and I used 1500 meters for that, if you make a larger size, take 200 meters extra for each size larger.
  • 5 mm for the sweater and 4 mm for the ribbing and the bottom part of the sleeves
  • Scissors
  • Tapestry needle

Terms used/abbreviations

Ch                    chain
Hdc                 half double crochet
Hdc blo           half double crochet in the back loop only
Hdc2tog          half double crochet 2 together
Fp dc               front post double crochet
Bp dc              back post double crochet
Rev sc            reverse single crochet/crab stitch
Sl st                slip stitch

Notes

  • This pattern is written in US terms.
  • Chain 1 at the beginning of the row does not count as a stitch.

Pattern

Measure from the top of your shoulder to the length you want your sweater to be, this is the length of your front and back panel. Write that number down so you don’t forget.

Front panel (5 mm. hook)

Row 1: Make a foundation hdc for the length you wrote down. I started with 97 stitches. If you want to learn how, click on this link:
If you don’t want to start with a foundation hdc then you can also make a chain for the length you wrote down and work a row of hdc on top.

Row 2: Chain 1, turn your work. Hdc blo in the first 10 stitches, mark your first stitch with a stitch marker. Hdc in every stitch across (you can use  for the uneven rows the 2 front loops instead of the normal stitch to create a nice stitch pattern)

Row 3: ch 1, turn your work. Hdc in every stitch across until you have 10 stitches left. Hdc in the front loop in the last 10 stitches.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until your work is 1/3 of the desired total width of your sweater. For me it was 17 rows, about 10 cm or 4”. You can work up as many rows you need to get the width you want. If you have 1/3 of your desired width then move on to row 18. It is possible that this is your row 22 or 16 for example. Make sure you work the decreases at the top of the sweater and not at the ribbing at the bottom.

Row 18: ch 1, turn your work. Hdc2tog in the first 2 stitches. Work the rest of the row as row 2.

Row 19: ch 1, turn your work. Work the row just as row 3 but make a hdc2tog in the last 2 stitches.

Repeat rows 18 and 19 until the part with decreases is about half the width of the 1st part (1/6 of the total width of the panel). I worked up 10 rows decreases.

Row 28: ch 1, turn your work. Make 10 hdc blo and after that 1 hdc in every stitch across (no decreases).

Now we start increases for the other half of the neckline.

Row 29: ch 1, turn your work. Make 2 hdc in the first stitch. Repeat row 3 for the rest of the row.

Row 30: ch 1, turn your work. Repeat row 2 until the last stitch. Make 2 hdc in the last stitch to increase.

Repeat rows 29 and 30 until the width is the same as the decrease part. Increase and decrease parts together are about the same width as the first part.

Row 39: Repeat row 3

Row 40: Repeat row 2

Repeat rows 39 and 40 until the last part is the same width as the first part of the panel.

Cut your yarn, bind off and leave a long tail to sew the shoulder seams.

Total width of my panel is 51 cm. and the height is 57 cm.

Make another panel for the back exactly the same but without decreases and increases. So start with the foundation hdc and repeat rows 2 and 3 until the panel is the same width as the front.

Block both panels.

Place the 2 body panels on top of each other. Close the shoulder seams using sc, sl st or sew them together.

Put the sweater on and measure from side of the sweater at the shoulder to the wrist. Write that number down. Then place the sweater on the table and divide the front panel horizontally in 3 equal parts, place a stitch marker on the bottom of the top part on both panels (the part from shoulder to the first dividing line).

Measure the width on each side from stitch marker to stitch marker. This is the width of your sleeve. We start the sleeve with this width.

Sleeves 

We keep working with the 5 mm crochet hook.

Row 1: Make a foundation hdc for the width you wrote down. I started with 53 stitches. If you don’t want to start with a foundation hdc then you can also make a chain for the length you wrote down and work a row of hdc on top.

Row 2: ch 1, turn your work. Hdc in every stitch across (you can use  for the uneven rows the 2 front loops instead of the normal stitch to create a nice stitch pattern).

Row 3: ch 1, turn your work. Hdc in every stitch across until you have 10 stitches left. Hdc in the front loop in the last 10 stitches.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until row 44. Here you start the decreases, see pattern below.

If you want to change the colors like in the YouTube tutorial then you follow the color change pattern below. If you want to make it all in one color then ignore the color changes and follow the rows in just 1 color. If there is only a color in a row then you just repeat rows 2 and 3. If you need a decrease in a row as well, then you see that written down in that specific row.

Rows 1-15 wine red (base color)
Row 16-17 dark blue
Row 18 wine red
Row 19-20 green
Row 21-22 wine red
Row 23 yellow
Row 24 wine red
Row 25-26 grey
Row 27-28 wine red
Row 29-32 blue
Row 33-34 wine red
Row 35 yellow
Row 36 wine red
Row 37-38 green
Row 39 wine red
Row 40-42 grey
Row 43 wine red
Row 44 blue, make a hdc2tog in the first 2 stitches, the rest is a hdc in every stitch across
Row 45-46 blue
Row 47 blue, make a hdc2tog in the last 2 stitches.
Row 48 blue, make a hdc2tog in the first 2 stitches.

Switch to a 4 mm crochet hook.

Row 49-51 blue, make a hdc2tog at the beginning and at the end of the row. Measure if the length is the length you measured at the beginning.
Row 52: ch 2. Turn your work. alternate fp dc and bp dc around.
Repeat row 52 until you like the length of the sleeve.

Make another sleeve exactly the same way.

Assembling

Lay your work on the table, right side up and attach your sleeves with stitch markers like you see on the photo.The middle part of the sleeve must be at the shoulder seam. Attach the sleeves to the body the same way you used for the shoulder seams. I sewed them together with the mattrass stitch.

Fold your work in half like the photo below. Close the side seams and the sleeves. Bind off and weave in your ends.

Collar (5 mm. hook)

Attach your yarn at the side seam in the neckline.

Row 1: ch 1, sc in the rows around the neck. Rule of thumb is 1 sc in every row but you can eyeball it and see if the neck lays nice and flat. You can add stitches or make less if needed.

Row 2: ch 1 and finish with a round of crab stitches. The crab stitch is a reversed sc so instead of making your stitches in the same direction you’ve made all of your stitches, we go backwards. Insert your hook in the stitch before the first stitch and make a sc. Then make a sc in the stitch before this stitch and so on. Repeat this all the way around and make a sl st in the first stitch to close the round.

Cut your yarn, bind off and weave in all your ends. And voila! Your Loren sweater is done. Enjoy wearing it during long winter walks in the woods or at the beach.